15 Kid-Friendly Things to Do and See in Portland, Maine (by an Actual Mainer)
Since being named Restaurant City of the Year by Bon Appetit in 2018, the tourist-fueled chatter surrounding Portland, Maine, has reached a din reminiscent of seagull cries on the wharf. My hometown, this little city by the sea, was always known as the “other Portland” — not nearly as populous or popular as the West Coast’s Portland. Growing up, I took Portland for granted, and longed for my exit. Now that I’ve been living in New York City for 15 years, I often miss the salt air, the cold ocean breeze, and the delicate crisp of a fried haddock sandwich. Good thing, then, that Vacationland is only a six- or seven-hour drive (or a 45-minute flight) away.
With summer approaching, friends asking for Maine travel advice are a dime a dozen. While there are plenty of guides on where to eat in Portland (okay, since you asked: Duckfat, Eventide, 555, and Central Provisions; outside the city: Two Lights Lobster Shack and Palace Diner), seeing as I was once a kid in this place, and I travel here several times a year with my own wildling, let’s talk about fun places to take little ones while you’re in between lobster feasts and brewery tours. Portland is a very walkable city, and there’s lots to do within an hour’s drive.
This one’s a no-brainer. Maine is known for its breathtaking coastline (and yes, if you were to stretch it out, it’s longer than California’s.) While some beaches are more rocky than others, for sandy shores near Portland, head to Crescent, Higgins, Scarborough, Old Orchard, or further south to Wells and Ogunquit. Be prepared for the Atlantic water to be quite cold — it makes for an invigorating swim!
The Eastern Promenade & Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad
Portland has historic promenades on its East and West Sides, both designed by the Olmstead Brothers of Central Park fame. The Eastern Promenade is far more popular with tourists thanks to its stunning views of Casco Bay. Paved trails make for an easy walk, bike, or stroller-ride from the Old Port. Along the way you’ll find the Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad, offering historic rides. There’s even a small beach with public restrooms, a playground, and lots of sloping grass to roll around on.
Casco Bay Lines Ferry to Peaks Island
While you should put Casco Bay Lines’ Mail Boat Run on your bucket list — the twice-daily ride hits five islands and you’ll get a glimpse of Maine island life — the three-hour journey is probably too much for little ones. Better to take the 15-minute jaunt to Peaks Island and rent bicycles, discover quiet beaches, and grab an ice cream while you wait for the return ferry. Pro tip: take an early ferry during peak season to avoid mid-day crowds.
July and August are prime tourist season in Maine, and those are also the months for picking the Maine state fruit, the blueberry. Head to one of the local farms such as Winslow Farm in Falmouth and pick a pint of sweet and tart antioxidant-packed berries. Most farm stands will carry other blueberry treats such as pie, muffins, jam, and ice cream.
Children’s Museum and Theatre of Maine
While a new children’s museum is in the works for 2020, the existing Children’s Museum and Theatre of Maine in downtown Portland is a good escape on a rainy day and offers plenty of interactive fun for all ages. Highlights include a Maine woodlands-themed exhibit with a rock-climbing wall, a 25-foot firetruck, a tide pool touch tank, and a padded play area for toddlers. Don’t miss the shipwreck-themed exhibit in the backyard.
Old Port & Treehouse Toys
If you’re looking to support the local economy, you’re going to want to do some shopping and sightseeing in the Old Port, Portland’s quaint cobblestone district. Walk down to Custom House Wharf and say hi to my mom Lisa at Sea Bags. If your kids are like mine, they don’t do so well with shopping unless there’s something in it for them. So swing through Treehouse Toys and let them spend their allowance on yet another plaything. If you make it out of there without a tantrum, reward them (and yourself) with Holy Donuts down the street.
Here’s another rainy day refuge — and best of all, admission for everyone 21 and under is free! Although it’s on the small side, Portland Museum of Art boasts an impressive permanent collection of paintings by Winslow Homer, Andrew Wyeth, and Maine artists obsessed with animals, like Dahlov Ipcar. Be sure to check out the McLellan House, a three-story Federal mansion built in 1801, and imagine yourself among Portland’s 19th century elite.
A local oasis for dog-walkers, joggers, bikers, and anyone looking for an easy, scenic stroll, Mackworth Island is a State Park just over the Portland border in Falmouth, accessible over a causeway. A 1.25-mile trail circles the island, with steep side trails leading down to pebble and sandy beaches. There is a school for the deaf that is off-limits to the public, but the playground is available during non-school hours. The parking lot is on the small side, so you’ll want to go early or late during peak weekends. Keep an eye out for a fairy village, a pet cemetery, and a fishing pier.
I have fond childhood memories of crossing the giant “boulders” — the granite rocks that make up the breakwater — to this little lighthouse in South Portland. While the lighthouse isn’t open to the public unless you book a private tour or come for a special event, the walk to get there is an adventure in and of itself. Smaller children may want to keep off the rocks and enjoy the lighthouse from a distance. There’s also Bug Light nearby, a similarly-sized lighthouse with a much shorter breakwater.
Fort Williams & Portland Head Light
While we’re on the topic of lighthouses, Portland Head Light in Cape Elizabeth, one of the most photographed lighthouses in America, is a must-see. Built in 1791, it is the oldest lighthouse in Maine. While you’ll marvel at the waves crashing dramatically over the rocks, the surrounding Fort Williams Park will probably be more interesting to kids. There are several old military forts, a Children’s Garden, cliff-side trails, and in summer months, food trucks selling lobster and gelato.
For a glimpse of Maine’s agricultural heritage, head to this 500-acre dairy farm in Westbrook (about a 15-minute drive outside of Portland) known for its milk and ice cream. Visit the Barnyard exhibit for a small admission fee to see a variety of animals such as goats, geese, rabbits, sheep, and baby chicks, and climb on play structures including a wooden train and a bouncing dragon made from recycled tractor parts.
With its boardwalk pier, amusement park, and sandy beach, OOB is a summertime rite of passage for many families. The beachfront amusement park and arcade, Palace Playland, offers rides for all ages, and has a nostalgic carnival atmosphere. Don’t miss the pier fries (drizzled with vinegar) and pizza by the slice. Mini golf fans will want to check out Pirate’s Cove down the street from the amusement park.
Funtown Splashtown
While it’s not nearly as big as a Six Flags, Funtown Splashtown in Saco has plenty of thrills and you can easily spend the day here. On warm days, you’ll want to spring for the full park pass that includes the water attractions. Classic rides include the bumper cars, bumper boats, log flume, wooden roller coaster, and rotating tea cups. The park is reconstructing one of its more vintage rides, the Astrosphere, but I was relieved to hear that the indoor dome will still play "Fire On High" by E.L.O.
If the ocean’s too cold for you, or you just want to see more of inland Maine’s beauty, freshwater lakes abound. Popular swimming spots include Sebago Lake State Park and Range Pond State Park, both about a 45-minute drive from Portland. Sandy beaches and shallow, warm water are appealing for swimmers of all levels. Pick up a fishing license and see what you can catch.
Got another rainy day during your vacation, or you just need a family-friendly night out? Head to where the locals go, Bayside Bowl. While there are several bowling spots to choose from, Bayside Bowl offers 20 lanes of 10-pin bowling, a small arcade, and often hosts live music. Head to the rooftop for sunset views and an Airstream taco truck, and adults may appreciate the craft beer and cocktail menu — what more do you need?